Leeks are at their best during the winter months and can withstand the harshest of winters. They’ve been grown for centuries, even featuring in the world’s very first recorded cookbook, written by the Roman cookery writer, Apicus. The Roman emperor, Nero, believed that leeks would improved his singing voice, eating so many that he was given the nickname leek-eater. They were also thought to possess great healing powers, from curing the common cold to alleviating the pain of child birth. During ancient times, leeks were used as a talisman, protecting soldiers as they fought in battles. Legend has it that St David, the patron saint of Wales, ordered his troops to wear a leek in their helmets during what turned out to be a victorious battle in the Saxon invasion of Britain. Consequently, the Welsh adopted the leek as one of their national symbols. What’s more, leeks were allegedly a means of foretelling the future and young girls were encouraged to place a leek under their pillows on St Davids Day, in the hope that they would dream about their future husbands.
Cooking with Leeks - leeks come from the same family as onions but with a sweeter and more subtle flavour which makes them a delicious addition to soups and stews. Leek and potato soup is a classic dish and they also make ideal partners for chicken and fish. As a side dish, simply gently fry, boil or steam them until just tender. Overcooked they have a tendency to become slimy. If you are able to eat dairy products, leeks have a particular affinity with creamy sauces. Try boiling or steaming them until just tender then place the cooked leeks in an ovenproof dish, cover with béchamel/white or cheese sauce and then grill until the top is bubbling and golden. For a dairy free alternative serve the leeks with a white sauce made with cornflour (cornstarch) and coconut milk, which has been infused with bay leaves, onion, peppercorns and mace.
Try these leek recipes:
Leeks can be gritty if soil has got in between the leaves and they haven’t been thoroughly washed. An easy way to remove the soil is to cut each leek into quarters, lengthways, leaving the very base of the leek intact. Leave them to soak in cold water then rinse well before slicing and cooking.
Grow Your Own - not all varieties of leek are winter hardy. Those that are include Musselburgh, Hannibal, Saint Victor and Bandit. Start sowing, under cover, in early spring. When the plants are about pencil thickness they are ready to plant out. Using a dibber, make holes in the prepared ground about 15-20cm deep and 15-20cm apart. It’s often recommended that both the roots and leaves of the leek plants are trimmed at this stage however, the RHS states that this advice is misguided. They advise just lightly trimming the roots as excess trimming stresses the plants and reduces their capacity to recover from transplanting. After trimming, push the plants into each of the holes and fill the holes with water, not soil. Depending on the variety, the leeks will be ready to harvest in autumn, winter or early spring and can be left in the ground and dug up as required.
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Sophie Grigson's stuffing recipe for roast chicken. Thinly sliced and eaten raw they have a crunchy texture, similar to water chestnuts. Raw artichokes have a tendency to discolour so to prevent this, the cut slices need to be coated in something acidic. A dressing containing lemon juice or vinegar is ideal.
